Camino del Norte Week 3

Day 15 Colombres - Llanes

23 kms, 6 hours, +200m

Day 16 Llanes - Ribasedella

29 kms, 7 hours, +180m

Day 17, Ribadesella - Colunga

20kms, 6 hours, +180m.

Away at 7.30am, dull with low cloud but dry. The backdrop to Ribasedella is spectacular: steep limestone hills and the harbour lovely. No bars open so stopped at El Arenal de Moris where there are picnic taables above the beach -- like bars, in short supply. One section of the track after Berbes wet flagstones under forest - lethally slippery but negotiated safely, if slowly.  Attractive walking with views of the rocky coast, quite isolated and like most of the Spanish countryside, very peaceful, Also muddy! Quite a heavy sea running with great surf on open beaches and spectular swells hitting the cliffs. Made La Isla for lunch, coffee here but although a pretty seaside town very quiet and not tempted to stay. More mud after lunch, but later dry quiet roads into Colunga. Reasonable accommodattion in a hostel here (El Mason), with a heater so dry socks for the morning (a rarity!). Srandard self-catered meal: beans, chorizo, jamon, queso, nibbles and wine (very tasty, 5 euros).

Day 18, Colunga - Villiviciosa, May 11 2013'

16 kms, 4.25 hours, +250m.

A short day today into Villiviciosa - fine and sunny for a change. Noisy last night - the bars finally seeemed to close arouund 3am. We didn't start walking until 8am by which time there were several groups ahead of us although we pulled tham in during the day. Minor road at first, quite few ups and downs. We stopped at Priesca, a small rural village with a lovely C9thchurch -- picnic table here and a local caat helped us finish our sardine ((the tinned fish has been fantastic - wide range, often quite cheap and always very good).

Trracks went downhill -- literally -- aftter this and became very muuddy - would do justice to any New Zealand tramping track esp. where tractors have been using them! We have now left the limestone behind and the mud is quite red!

We made Villiiviciosa for lunch, the inevittable bar (no publiic toilets here, the cost of a loo is a coffee or glass of wine, both about the same price).

Hotel Carlos I for the nightt - fantastic room, en suite and breakfast for 30 euros -  Pilgrims rate! People watched most of tthe afternoon after huge lunch (Menu del Dia; Asurian bean stew,  sole and chips, soup and creme caramel - more than we could eat with a bottle of wine, 9 euros each!)

Noisy night again, no wonder Spain needs a Siesta!

Day 19, Villaviciosa - Pola de Siero; May 12 2013.

28 kms, 7 hours, +400m.

A pleasant day's walking in mild and often sunny weather. Away frrom the Hotel just after 7.30am, later than most other peregrinos but the rest of Villaviciosa still very much asleep. A steady climb to de Campa, the high point at 400m. We avoided the monastery at San Salvador de Valedios, opting instead for waymarked alternative that climbed steadily on  well graded paths to the saddle. We had a break here before descending steadily towards La Vega. We found a bar for coffee shortly before La Vega, more bars in La Vega, and had lunch a litttle later. For once there seemed to be plenty of small picnic areas - a pleasant change! The small Ermita de Nra Senora has a nice picnic area. Arrived in La Pola de Siero just after 3pm, 7 hours walking, found the Albergue on the far side of town quite easily. Albargue quite new, roomy, clean and good facilities incuiding a microwave and WiFi! Donativo is 5 euros! On the minus side, La Pola was closed (Sunday) apart from very lively bars and restaurants doing a thriving business. Couldn't find a single shop open so a scatch meal at the Albergue after a few wines in town.

Day 20

Pola de Siero - Oviedo; May 13 2013.

17 kms, 4 hours.

Our last day on the Camino del Norte variant into Oviedo where we will stay tonight. Tomorrow, Tuesday May 14 we will start the Camino Primitivo which takes a more inland route across the mountains via Lugo to join the Camino Frances not far from Santiago. We are expecting the walking to become harder and facilitiees to be more limited on the Primitivo but time will tell.

Away by 7.30am, fine cool morning, pleasant walking for most of the way into Oviedo -- mostly minor roads but progressively more built up as we approached the city. Coffee (and toilets) on the outskirts of te city in the industrial zone, then the final walk into town. We lost our faliliar yellow arrows but just aimed for the huge cathedral which is visible long before you reach it. Very much tourist zone around the cathedral but lovely old buildings and the cathedral is most impressive with amazing ornate spires. Continued on towards the train station (still on the Camino) andd eventually scored 2 star hotel room for 35 euros -- not the best we have had but pretty amazing given the location. We have come to the conclusion that these places drop the price as soon as they see pilgrims -- we are pretty distinctive! -- as they know the Albergue nearby charges 3 euros a night.

Good lunch in town, wine not so good this time but no complaints at the price, then shopping for tomorrow and back to the hotel to shower and wash clothes.

Day 21 Oviedo - Grado, 14 May 2013

26 kms.

Starting on  the Primitivo proper today, weather forecasts indicate a week of cold showery weather for our time in the mountains!! WiFi likely to be limited so will update as we can!

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