El Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Jennie and Euan are planning to walk El Camino de Santiago from late April to May 2013 from Biarittz to Santiago de Compostela and on to Finisterre. We are staying in Bayonne on 21 April and are yet to decide whether we do Los Camino del Norte or Camino Frances at this stage (20 Feb) we are probably leaning towards Los Caminos del Norte but have to do a lot more homework yet. Looking increasingly likely we will do Los Caminos del Norte and Camino Primitivo but will wait for more info from the Confraternity of Saint James before a final decision!

On 25 Feb have made bookings back to the UK from Oviedo so one way or another we will have to get back there by then. One possibility might be to walk back to Oviedo from Santiago on Caminos del Norte ... maybe we will have had enough Camino by then! Possibly Picos de Europa for a few days? Time will tell!

 Follow our journey on this blog!

19 April .... in Reading!   On Sunday 21st we fly to Biarritz, then travel to Bayonne for the night. On Monday 22nd we are intending to catch a train to Hendaye, then walk the 4kms across the border into Spain to Irun for the night, where our Camino del Norte will begin. 

22 April 2013. After a comfortable night in Hotel des Arcaux in Bayonne we are headin off to Hendaye later today to satrt Caminno del Norte. Tonight we should be in Irun on  the Spanish side of the border. Had a pleasant afternoon in Bayonne yesterday - the old walled medieval city is most interesting and the cathedral impressive.  We will  pick up  our credenciales for the Camino this morning at the cathedral.  Bus from the Biarritz airport yesterday to Bayonne which took about 25 minutes was only 1 euro! The albergue is on the far side of the bridge across the main railway lines, about 2 blocks off the main thoroughfare on the left and a block from the railway. Credenciales can be obtained at the Albergue (2 euros, opens at 4pm).

23 April 2013. After a comfortable night in the Albergue de Peregrinos in Irun, we left at 7.30am for Donastia-San Sebastian. Waymarks guided out of town and we were soon climbing towards Ermita de Guadalupe (1hr 15'). After a short stop, we carried on on the 4WD track contouring below Jaizquibel. The path holds a steady contour for about 4kms until a junction is reached, then climbs gently for a while before reaching a paved road which is followed uphill for a short distance. Once the descent begins to Pasajes de San Juan it is a steepish slog down paved roads and than a steep path with steps at the bottom leading to the Quay. Scenery here is spectacular, and the walk along the Quay past the old fishing village houses to the ferry jetty beautiful. 0.70 euros got us across to the other side of the inlet where we had lunch on the Quay in the sun (4hrs 15' from Irun). Waymarking excellent all the way.

Once across the harbour, the camino follows the quay to the harbour entrance then climbs steep steps towards the lighthouse (not as described in the CSJ guide 2010).

Once up the steps the camino follows roads to a high point near the lighthouse, then a track (also GR121) which sidles along the hillsides above the sea. After some time the camino leaves the GR121 (this is a possible alternative as they later rejoin) and follows roads and footpaths along the ridge and down into Donastia - San Sebastian. The Albergue (Youth Hostel) is on the far side of town just off the Camino, occasional yellow arrows and signs guide the way; there are great views across the city and bay on the descent. Very good accommodation and breakfast, kitchen, wifi.

24/4

Donastai=San Sebastian - Zarautz

22 kms; 6 hours

Beautiful day, a steady climb away from San Sebastian in the morning and then sublime walking aliing rural roads overlooking the Atlantic. We came across a small "sello" where we could stamp our own credenciales en route and then continued sidling above the ocean for about 10kms before descending towards Orio, an attractive old port for espresso. From Orio, walked along the harbour for some distance and then up a minor road passing vineyards on the way to the ridge crest above Zarautz defore the descent into town, vey warm about 28 degrees.

Eventually locatted the Youth Hostel on the far side of town, institutional, relatively expensive and no cooking facilities but good rooms and showers 22 euros. 

25/4. Another fine morning, breakfast not until 9am nad very basic for 6 euros. Today we travelled from  Zarautz to Deba - 23kms, 6 hours. Then first 3kms is a lovely coastal walk to Geteria, bars here for juice or coffee, then onto Zumaia for lunch, another old port located on a rivermouth. Had lunch here in small plaza after a visit to the local suoermercado,then a climb out of town after lunch. Several ups and downs en route to Deba with s very very steep descent on concrete roads and paths into town - tough on shins and thighs! Deba is an old town located on Rio Deba, a pretty small town that has very little traffic and kids everywhere! We couldn't find the Albergue but eventually came across fellow peregrinos wiating outside of the nmunicipal police station which opes at 5pm and issues keys etc. The Albergue is an old school, about 24 places, very damp and cavernous but comfortable enough - no kitchen but byou can eat in a rather cheerless windowless room! The town has a couple mof public elevators to get from the Albergue to the lower town - very handy!

Spent an hour in a bar nursing a glass of red wine watching kids playing football in the plaza and families enjoying the mild evening - very good.

Euan managed to fall out of bed (upper bunk) during nthe night collecting more bruises! We were informed by another peregrino that this is a common occurence on the Camino, the bunks often have no guard rails

Walking and route finding to date has been good, our guides are of mixed value but the way marking (yellow arrows) have been great, also reasonable number of wooden posts and signposts for Donojacobea Bidea/Camino de Santiago. One of the difficulties has been place names  - often only in Basque and very confusing, maps where they exist are also often difficult to follow. On the plus side there are rubbish bins everywhere - even in the middle of nowhere !Not the same for WCs, very rare, most have to go to  bar (espresso y banos) or resort to more basic measures.

26/4; Day 4

Deba-Markina; 22kms, 6.5 hours

Away early after a basic breakfast and up the inevitable hill, damp and atmospheric. Ermita del Calvario portico gave shelter from the rrain - very cold. On down past the 12 crosses, up through Aparain and down to Olaz; welcome bar here but older locals unfriendly (no Ola, (Gringos!, drink your cafe!). Welcome bocadello, sopa, cafe solo).

Continued showery with hail and thunder, walking often through pine forest on muddy tracks. A long climb through pine forest and then a steep descent to Markina (e folloed the marked route rather than the even steeper short route to Markina). Visited the very unusual San Miguel de Arretxinaga Sanctuary an 11th century church buiil around three large megalithic stones - not to be missed. 

Stayed in the private Albergue Intxauspe on the far side of the river, about 700m from the town centre.  Great accommodation and food here, can't do better.  

27/4; Day 5

Markina-Gernika; 24kms, 7.5 hours

28/4; Day 6

Gernika-Zamudia; 28kms, 5.5 hours.

Took the bus into Bilbao to get cheaper accommodation; rest day in Bilbao on the 29th.

30/4; Day 7

Portugalete-Castro-Urdiales. See Camino page 2 for details.

Last update 29 April 2013.